the event of a bad fault you don't want to damage them. Double-check =
with your=20
multimeter that your power supply puts out a suitable voltage (12.5 - 16 =
volts=20
DC) and that the polarity of its connector is OK (centre is positive, =
outer=20
barrel is GND). Once you're happy it's time for the moment of truth. =
Plug in=20
your power-supply and switch it on. No smoke I hope! Use your multimeter =
to=20
check the voltages at the disk-drive power connector. Black is GND, red =
should=20
be +5V and yellow should be +12V. Any problems, power down immediately =
and check=20
your board again. </P>
<P>Leaving your multimeter GND lead on the GND connection, check the tab =
on the=20
little 3.3V regulator U3. It should be 3.3V. Probing around its pins you =
should=20
find 5V going in, and 3.3V coming out. Also check the power coming into =
the=20
board (the fuse clips are a good spot) - the voltage should be between =
13 and 18=20
volts.</P>
<P>If that's all OK, power down. If you're using a 3.5" drive, plug in =
its'=20
power connector only. Not the IDE ribbon cable; only its power. Then =
power-up=20
again and recheck the 5V and 12V rails. If you're using a laptop drive, =
skip=20
this step. You don't want to plug in the IDE cable until you've =
programmed the=20
AVR. Power down.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3><A name=3DAVRPROG></A>Programming the AVR</H3>
<P>With the various board voltages checked out OK, it's time to program =
the AVR.=20
Exactly how you do this depends upon what programming dongle &amp; =
programming=20
software you're using. Read your documentation. Most likely it'll be a =
2-step=20
process. Once you've hooked up the programming cable and powered-on the =
board=20
you'll want to program the "fuse bits" in the Mega128. This will do =
useful=20
things like take the AVR out of Mega103 compatibility mode and enable =
the 16 MHz=20
crystal oscillator. See the readme.txt file in the software zip file for =

details. Once you're happy with the fuse bits settings, you can then go =
and=20
program the part with the MP3 player software. Double-check those fuse =
bits! If=20
they're wrong all kinds of wierd things can happen. For example the LCD =
display=20
working but the debug port not, due to being in Mega103 mode. Or nothing =
working=20
because the AVR is running off its slow internal RC oscillator instead =
of the 16=20
MHz crystal. </P>
<P>Once the AVR is programmed and verifies, power-down and unplug the=20
programming cable. Now plug in everything else! The LCD display; the =
LED, the=20
drive power &amp; IDE ribbon cable, etc. Strictly speaking you don't =
need to=20
plug in the audio connectors yet, but you can if you want to. Then =
power-on.</P>
<P>What should happen is the LED should light. After a brief delay (a =
couple of=20
seconds) the LCD display should start displaying text. The drive will be =
audibly=20
winding up, and then the player will tell you (on the display) it's =
counting MP3=20
files and building tables. Once it finishes this you should be able to =
press the=20
play button to start playing the first MP3 file. Assuming there are =
files on the=20
drive of course. Congratulations!</P>
<P>This was the short version of programming the AVR. For a more =
detailed=20
version <A href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/avrprog.htm">read =
this=20
page</A>.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3>Downloading Files</H3>
<P>Once you plug the USB cable in (connected to your PC) the LCD display =
will=20
show that it's been detected and hands off control to the USB interface. =
At that=20
point you can format the drive (if need be; yes apparently you can do =
that over=20
USB, although I've not done it personally) and of course drop MP3 files =
into the=20
player's root directory. </P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3>Hot Power Supply or USB Chip?</H3>
<P>Depending upon the drive being used and the voltage provided to the =
player,=20
the 5V switchmode regulator and the 12V linear regulator may get a =
little warm.=20
The only way to find out is to run the player and carefully touch the=20
power-supply components (with your fingertip, wearing a wriststrap of =
course=20
:-). Check them every 20 seconds or so to see how quickly they heat up. =
If they=20
get really hot you need to put a heatsink on them. I purchased a small =
stick-on=20
heatsink from my local electronics store and cut it in half (because it =
was too=20
wide) then stuck it on the chips. That helped a lot. Given that the =
player sits=20
on the shelf and doesn't move around, the sticky backing held the =
heatsink on=20
just fine. This is something you'll find by experimenting, depending =
upon how=20
much power your drive draws and the voltage your power-supply provides =
(higher=20
voltage power-supply equals hotter U1 &amp; U2). Excess heat will kill =
the=20
chips, so check them and heatsink them if necessary. Or put some diodes =
in=20
series with the power supply, so that the input voltage to the board is =
lower.=20
As described <A=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/powersupply.htm">here</A>.</P>
<P>Similarly with the USB chip. It can dissipate close to 1W of power. =
Keep an=20
eye (finger!) on it, and if you're at all concerned, put a small =
heatsink on it.=20
Whether you need it or not will completely depend upon how much you use =
the USB=20
port. If in doubt, put a small heatsink on it; you <EM>don't </EM>want =
to fry=20
that chip. If the USB chip gets hot then most likely the little 3.3V =
regulator=20
U3 will be also, so you may need to place a small heatsink on it as =
well.</P><!-- InstanceEndEditable -->
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