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?? 使用ATmega制作的MP3,帶usb接口,解碼使用STA013+CS43
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From: <由 Microsoft Internet Explorer 5 保存>
Subject: Homemade USB 2 Harddrive MP3 Player Construction Details
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 12:35:16 +0800
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Content-Location: http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/buildnotes.htm

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Homemade USB 2 Harddrive MP3 Player Construction =
Details</TITLE>
<META=20
content=3D"Homemade harddrive MP3 player homebuilt diskdrive MP3 player =
USB interface USB2 USB 2.0 USB Drive audio player stereo high capacity =
do it yourself mp3 player kit software sourcecode hardware schematic =
circuit diagram"=20
name=3Dkeywords><!-- InstanceBegin =
template=3D"Templates/MP3CSStemplate.dwt" =
codeOutsideHTMLIsLocked=3D"false" --><!-- InstanceBeginEditable =
name=3D"head" --><!-- InstanceEndEditable --><!-- InstanceBeginEditable =
name=3D"doctitle" --><!-- InstanceEndEditable -->
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1"><LINK=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/mp3style.css" type=3Dtext/css=20
rel=3Dstylesheet>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV id=3DBannerLeft><IMG height=3D61 =
src=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/mp3.gif"=20
width=3D175 align=3Dmiddle> </DIV>
<DIV id=3DBannerBody>Homebuilt MP3 Player </DIV>
<DIV id=3DBottomBanner>A do-it-yourself high-capacity harddisk-based MP3 =
Player=20
with USB 2.0 </DIV>
<DIV id=3DLeftMenu>
<P><A class=3Dmenu =
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/index.html">Home</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/hwdetails.htm">Hardware<BR>Descr=
iption</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/schematics.htm">Schematics=20
&amp;<BR>PCB</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/software.htm">Software</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu =
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/kits.htm">Kits=20
&amp;<BR>Parts</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/driveselection.htm">Drive=20
Selection</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu =
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/usb2.htm">USB=20
2.0</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/buildnotes.htm">Construction<BR>=
Notes</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu =
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/createmp3s.htm">Creating=20
MP3s</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu =
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/news.htm">Latest=20
News</A></P>
<P><A class=3Dmenu=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/contact.htm">Contact</A></P>
<HR color=3D#000000 noShade SIZE=3D1>

<P>&nbsp;</P></DIV>
<DIV id=3DPageBody><!-- InstanceBeginEditable name=3D"EditRegion1" -->
<H2>MP3 Player Board Construction Notes </H2>
<P>This section provides information on construction and testing of the =
kit MP3=20
player. For notes on selecting a powersupply, <A=20
href=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/powersupply.htm">read =
here.</A></P>
<H3>Be Static-Aware</H3>
<P>You=92re building a board using components that are very vulnerable =
to static=20
damage. Be careful!! Wear a wrist strap. Reach over and touch something =
metal=20
and grounded. Please don=92t wear a polyester suit whilst shuffling your =
feet on=20
the shag carpet=85 :-) Make every effort to avoid static buildups - =
static WILL=20
kill your project. Use that wriststrap! They look a lot like this:</P>
<P><IMG height=3D300 alt=3D"MP3 Player Construction wriststrap"=20
src=3D"http://www.frankvh.com/mp3player/wriststrap.jpg" width=3D300></P>
<H3>Starting the Build - General Notes</H3>
<P>Start with a visual scan of the PCB. Make sure it=92s clean and =
doesn=92t have=20
any little bitties stuck to it. Particularly between the pins of the=20
already-soldered surface-mount devices. Look for any obvious problems. I =
always=20
like to pull out my multimeter and check there are no shorts between any =
of the=20
voltage rails and ground. Get comfortable with the schematics (circuit=20
diagrams); they are your friends. They help tell you what parts go =
where.</P>
<P>Be careful with capacitor polarizations. It can be confusing with =
some of the=20
small electrolytic and tantalum capacitors when the silkscreen overlay =
gets=20
busy. When in doubt, it will help you to know that on the PCB, the =
square pin=20
pad is the positive terminal of the capacitor. So a polarized capacitor, =
which=20
has two pads on the PCB, will have a square pad for the + lead, and a =
round pad=20
for the - lead.</P>
<P>Read this entire assembly guide before soldering down any =
components.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3>Start with the Low-Profile Parts - Follow the Bag Numbers.</H3>
<P>There are three bags of components, numbered 1 through 3. Bag 1 =
contains=20
low-profile non static-sensitive components. Start with these. Note that =
you are=20
soldering them into a PCB which already has surface-mount ICs soldered =
onto it,=20
so take all static precautions. </P>
<P>You=92ll note that some resistors lay flat on the board, while =
others, such as=20
those sandwiched between the two IDE connectors, stand up. All resistors =
are 5%=20
tolerance except for the 24k and 2k7 which are 1%. These set the 12V =
voltage, so=20
don=92t substitute them.</P>
<P>Take care with your component placement. Accidently inserting a =
capacitor=20
backwards, or a resistor in the wrong spot, is very easy to do but will =
cause=20
you no end of grief. Double-check each component's value, location and=20
orientation before soldering it. A few extra minutes spent =
double-checking=20
yourself during construction can make the difference between a working =
player=20
and a "silly error" dead one. Some silly errors can get expensive; a =
mistake=20
building the power-supply could easily fry the chips on the board, the =
LCD=20
display, and / or your disk drive! So be careful and constantly =
double-check=20
your work as you go along.</P>
<P>There are numerous tantalum capacitors on the board. The black bar on =
the=20
casing indicates the +ve (positive) lead.</P>
<P>R32 (next to the USB connector) is a zero-ohm resistor. In other =
words it's=20
just a straight wire link. Use a piece of wire you've previously snipped =
off a=20
resistor or capacitor for R32.</P>
<P>Once you've finished soldering all of the components from bag 1, move =
on to=20
bag 2. This bag contains some static-sensitive parts such as some ICs, =
diodes=20
and transistors, but like bag 1 these are also lower-profile parts. Bag =
two also=20
contains some components that could otherwise be easily confused with =
components=20
in bag 1, such as the nonpolarized electrolytic capacitors C18 &amp; =
C19, and=20
the small "resistor-like" inductors L2 - L5. For this reason be careful =
not to=20
mix up the contents of the different bags.</P>
<P>Finally, once bag 2 is complete, bag 3 contains the tall components. =
These=20
are mostly connectors, although C1 (the large electrolytic capacitor) is =
also in=20
this bag. </P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3><STRONG>Resistor Colour Codes</STRONG></H3>
<P>If you don't know how to read those colourful resistors, here's an =
excellent=20
description for the common 5% tolerance resistors:</P>
<P><A =
href=3D"http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_codes.htm=
"=20
target=3D_top>http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/resistor_cod=
es.htm</A></P>
<P>Most of the resistors in the kit are 5% tolerance. A few are 1% and =
read=20
slightly differently. Read about those here:</P>
<P><A=20
href=3D"http://www.technology.niagarac.on.ca/courses/etec1120/Files/resis=
tor.pdf"=20
target=3D_top>http://www.technology.niagarac.on.ca/courses/etec1120/Files=
/resistor.pdf</A></P>
<P>The labels on the kit bags include the resistor colour codes to make =
your job=20
a little quicker.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3><STRONG>Capacitor Values</STRONG></H3>
<P>Small capacitors read similarly to resistors but without the colours; =
they=20
just use numbers. The first two are digits and the third is a =
multiplier, with=20
the result expressed in pF. So, a capacitor with 104 written on it is: =
10 0000=20
pf, which is 100 nF which is 0.1uF. A 22 pF capacitor would normally =
read 220,=20
although sometimes the manufacturer just writes 22.</P>
<P>There are a number of small capacitors for this project, beyond the =
handful=20
of 0.1uF decoupling capacitors. Sort through them and ensure you know =
which is=20
which before soldering them down.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<H3>Optional Parts</H3>
<P>D1, the tranzorb, is only required if you plan to use the player in a =
harsh=20
power environment, such as in a car. In conjunction with the fuse it =
provides=20
both overvoltage and reverse-polarity protection. If you=92re going to =
run the=20
player in your home off a plugplug you shouldn=92t need D1. Having said =
that, I=20
recommend you install it, just in case you accidently connect power =
backwards.=20
D1 can make the difference between replacing a fuse and replacing the =

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