%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%                        

                         SECRETS OF LOCK PICKING

                           By Steven Hampton

               originally published by Paladin Press (c) 1987
             (don't let the date fool you.  This is good stuff)

                           brought to you by
                            Dr. Bloodmoney

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

        Well, I'm bringing you this file because I have a scanner and an
OCR package and I like to pick locks.  This file is a complete transcription
of the book, Secrets of Lock Picking by Steven Hampton, minus the chapter
on warded locks (These locks are cheap. Use a hammer and a screwdriver).
Before getting on to the subject, I would just like to use this opportunity
to say that you can not just read this file and know how to pick locks. It
does take practice.  The good news is that by practicing you will learn how
to open locks.  And fast, too.  I have heard many people say "It's not like
the movies...it takes time to pick a lock."  Well, sometimes thats true, but
I have picked a Sargeant six-pin, high-security tumbler lock in three seconds.
And other similar locks in the the same time frame as well.  So I know that
it can be done.  But don't worry.  Practicing is not boring.  There is a
certain thrill present when you pick a lock for the very first time.  
Imagine the sensation of knowing that you can get into almost anywhere you 
want.  Believe me when I tell you that it is very cool.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
                        Contents




                Introduction
                Tools 
                Lock Identification
                Pin Tumbler Locks
                Wafer Tumbler Locks
                Double Wafer Locks
                Pin and Wafer Tumbler Padlocks
                Tubular Cylinder Locks 
                Mushroom and Spool Pin Tumbler Locks
                Magnetic Locks
                Disk Tumbler Locks
                Tips for Success







INTRODUCTION                                                             


The ancient Egyptians were the first to come up with
a complicated security device. This was the pin tumbler
lock. We use the same security principle today on millions
of applications.

The most commonly used lock today is the pin tumbler
lock. A series of pins that are divided at certain points
must be raised to these dividing points in relationship to
the separation between the cylinder wall and the shell of
the lock by a key cut for that particular series of pin divi-
sions. Thus the cylinder can be turned, and the mechanism
or lock is unlocked.

Lock picking means to open a lock by use of a flat piece
of steel called a pick. Actually, the process requires two
pieces of flat steel to open cylinder locks. It amuses me
to watch spies and thieves on TV picking locks using only
one tool. But it is for the better in a sense. If everyone
learned how to pick locks by watching TV, we would all
be at the mercy of anyone who wanted to steal from us,
and the cylinder lock for the most part would be outdated.

The actual definition of lock picking should be: "The
manipulation and opening of any restrictive mechanical
or electronic device by usage of tools other than the
implied instrument (key or code) used solely for that
device." A little lengthy, but more accurate description.
With cylinder locks, it requires a pick and a tension
wrench.

By picking the lock, you simply replace the function
of a key with a pick that raises the pins to their "break-
ing point," and using a tension wrench one rotates the
cylinder to operate the cam at the rear of the lock's cylinder
to unlock the mechanism.

                   (See Fig-01.GIF)

The tension wrench is used to apply tension to the
cylinder of the lock to cause a slight binding action on
the pins as well as to turn the cylinder after the pins have
been aligned by the pick; this opens the lock. The slight
binding action on the pins caused by the tension wrench
allows one to hear and feel each pin as it "breaks" or
reaches alignment with the separation of cylinder and
shell. The vibration is felt in the knuckles and joints of
the fingers, and the sound is similar to that of a cricket
in an arm wrestling match-a subtle yet distinct click.

Usually you need very little tension with the wrench
while picking the lock. In fact, it takes somewhat of a
delicate, yet firm touch. This is the secret to picking locks
successfully-a firm and yet gentle touch on the tension
wrench. You should be able to feel the pins click into place
with the right amount of tension; experience will be your
true guide.

Half of your success will be based on your ability to
use or improvise various objects to use as tools for your
purpose. The other half will depend on practice. I once
picked a pin tumbler lock using a borrowed roach clip
and a hairpin. A dangerous fire was prevented and prob-
ably several lives were saved. The world is full of useful
objects for the purpose, so never hesitate to experiment.




TOOLS


I started picking locks using a small screwdriver and
a safety pin. The screwdriver can be used as a tension
wrench, and the safety pin is used like a "hook" pick.
The last half inch of the screwdriver's tip was bent at a
45 degree angle so as to allow easy entry for the pick (bent
safety pin). Do not heat the screwdriver tip to bend it,
as this will destroy its temper. Use a vise and hammer to
do the job. Bend slowly by using firm and short taps of
the hammer, otherwise you may break and weaken the
shaft. The safety pin should be about one and a half inches
long and bent in the same way.

With the small screwdriver as a tension wrench, you can
use more of a turning or twisting movement than with
a regular tension wrench so you will generally need less
direct force when using it. As I mentioned earlier, with
practice you will develop the feeling for the right amount
of tension on a cylinder. If the safety pin bends after a
short time, use the keyway of the lock you are picking
to bend it back into shape. Even after several times of
bending, it should still be useful. Keep a few spares handy,
though. File the tip of the safety pin flat in relationship
to the bottom of the pins in the lock. Smooth any sharp
edges so that you won't impale yourself. Also, if the tip
is smooth, the pick will not get hung up on the pins while
picking the lock.

Granted these are not the best tools for the job, but
they do work. If you learn to use your junk box as a rich
source of equipment, then with your experience real lock
picks will give you magic fingers. Also, you'll have the
advantage of being able to improvise should you be
without the real things (which are illegal to carry on your
person in most parts of the country).

Lock picks are difficult to get. I received my first set
when I became a locksmith apprentice. All of my subse-
quent sets I made from stainless steel steak knives with
a grinder and cut-off wheel. They are much more durable
than the commercial picks. If you do make your own,
make certain that the steel is quenched after every 3
seconds of grinding-do not allow the pick to get hot to
the point of blue discoloration.

A diamond pick is the standard pick I use on most all
pin and wafer locks. A small diamond pick is used for
small pin tumbler locks such as small Master padlocks,
cabinet file locks, etc. The tubular cylinder lock pick, we
will discuss later. The double-ended, single-pronged ten-
sion wrench is used with the diamond pick. It features
double usage; a small end for small cylinders and a large
end for the larger cylinders. A special tension wrench is
used for double-wafer cylinder locks with an end with two
prongs on one end and tubular cylinder locks with the
single prong on the other end. We will discuss tubular
cylinder and double-wafer locks later as well. The steel
should be .030 inches to .035 inches thick for the picks
and .045 inches to .050 inches thick for the first tension
wrench mentioned above. The second tension wrench
should be .062 inches square (.062 inches x .062 inches)
on the tubular cylinder side (one pronged end), and .045
inches thick on the double-wafer end (two-pronged end).
You can accomplish this by starting out with .045 inches
in thickness.  The two-pronged end should be bent carefully
in a vise at a 30 degree angle. This allows easy entry for
the pick on double-wafer locks.

                      (See fig-02.GIF)

Among the more common tools used by professionals
around the world is the rake pick. The rake pick is used
to "rake" the tumblers into place by sliding it in and out
across the tumblers. I seldom use the rake pick because
it is not highly effective and I consider it a sloppy excuse
for a lock pick. I've seen the rake pick work on some dif-
ficult locks, but you can rake with a diamond pick and
get the same results. I prefer the diamond pick for most
tumbler locks simply because it is easier to get in and out
of locks-it slides across the tumblers with little or no
trouble.

A ball pick is used for picking double-wafer cylinder
locks, though I never carry one; I use a large diamond
pick and reverse it when picking these locks. This means
I have one less pick to carry and lose.

                       (See fig-03.GIF)

A double-ball pick is used like a rake on double-wafer
locks in conjunction with a tension wrench (two-pronged
end).

A hook pick is used to open lever tumbler locks, though
again, I use a diamond pick with a hooking action when
possible. There are various sizes of hooks but they all have
the same basic job-to catch the movable levers that
unlock lever locks.

There are also various sizes of tension wrenches. They
are usually made from spring steel. The standard tension
wrench is used for pin and wafer locks. A special tension
wrench is called a Feather Touch, and it is used for high-
security mushroom and spool pin tumbler locks. Its
delicate spring-loaded action allows the pick to bypass the
tendencies of these pins to stick. A homemade version of
the Feather Touch can be made from a medium-light duty
steel spring.

As to getting lock picks for your own use, you cannot
go down to your local hardware store and buy them. I
could supply you with some sources or wholesalers, but
I do believe it is illegal for them to sell to individuals. Your
best bet would be to find a machine shop that will
fabricate them for you. It would be less expensive and
arouse less suspicion if you purchase a small grinder with
a cut-off wheel and make your own. With a little prac-
tice, you can make a whole set in an afternoon. Use a copy
of the illustrations in this book as templates and carefully
cut them out with an X-ACTO knife. Cut down the middle
of the lines. Acquire some stainless steel (many steak
knives approach proper thickness).

With a glue stick, lightly coat one side of the paper
template and apply it to the cleaned stainless surface, and
allow it to dry. You'll need a can of black wrinkle finish
spray paint. This kind of paint has a high carbon con-
tent and can stand high temperature of grinding. Spray
the stainless (or knives) with the patterns glued on and
dry in a warm oven or direct sunlight for one hour. Set
aside for twenty-four more hours. Peel off the paper
template and you are ready to cut and grind. Please use
caution when cutting and grinding. The piece should be
quenched every three seconds in cold water. Smooth up
sharp edges with a small file or burnishing wheel.

Tools made from stainless steel will outlast the pur-
chased ones. The tools purchased from most suppliers are
made from spring steel and wear out after about 100 uses.
The stainless steel ones, if properly made, should last over
2,000 uses.



LOCK IDENTIFICATION


There are many types of locks, the most common being:

1. The pin tumbler lock. Used for house and garage doors,
padlocks, mail boxes, and Ford automobiles.

2. The wafer tumbler lock. Used for garage and trailer
doors, desks, padlocks, cabinets, most autos, window
locks, and older vending machines.

3. The double-wafer lock. Used for higher security wafer
tumbler applications.

4. The warded locks. Used for light security padlocks and
old-fashioned door locks.

5. Lever locks Used for light security and older padlocks,
sophisticated safe-deposit boxes, some desks, jewelry
boxes, and small cash boxes.

6. Tubular cylinder locks. Used for alarm control systems,
newer vending machines, car-wash control boxes and
wherever higher security problems might exist.

These locks are the more common locks used yet there
are variations and combinations of these principal types
that usually pick open in the manner that will be discussed.
Some of them just require practice of the basic types,
others luck, and most of the rest of them knowledge of
how that particular lock works and is keyed. This comes
from experience.

                       (See fig-04.GIF)


PIN TUMBLER LOCKS